In October 2022, the US National Institutes of Health (NIH) published a study that found women who used hair relaxers more than four times a year were at a higher risk of uterine cancer. While many black women in the US are now rejecting chemical straighteners – filing thousands of lawsuits against manufacturers in the wake of the study – sales of the products in some African countries continue to climb. The companies at the centre of the US lawsuits produce some of Africa’s most popular brands. Dark & Lovely, owned by L’Oréal, is the best-selling relaxer in Nigeria. Ors Olive Oil No-Lye Relaxer, produced by Namaste Laboratories, is in second place. In Kenya, TCB Naturals is owned by Godrej Consumer Products, which describes itself as the “largest player globally in hair care for women of African descent”. All the listed brands are named in the lawsuit. Tunisia, Kenya and Cameroon were among the countries worldwide leading sales growth for perms and relaxers from 2017 to 2022, according to Euromonitor, a market research firm. Sales in Tunisia and Kenya jumped 10% over the five-year span. South Africa and Nigeria also saw growth.

SOURCE: THE GUARDIAN